Thirty-six minutes from Bastrop, south of the city of La Grange, lies a state historical site. State historical sites and natural areas, like their national counterparts, are often waiting in line to be declared full-fledged parks. Monument Hill is 40 acres of preserved history and natural beauty managed by Texas Parks and Wildlife. At first glance it looks like a secluded city park, wooded and neatly manicured, tucked into a hillside with grand old oaks and expansive green lawns among stately homes and a golf course. If you aren’t paying attention you could easily drive right by it as part of the surrounding ritzy neighborhood. Once inside, however, you are immediately met by kiosks, a welcome center and those telltale dark brown and yellow TPWD signs made at Bastrop State Park.
On the day of my visit it was a crystal clear, blustery January weekday, protected by one of nature’s bluest skies. On the bluff overlooking the Colorado River, you can see all of La Grange—a grand view. Every city looks almost artificial from a distance, but you can see it all from one end to the other, like a magical Leggo creation. On the hilltop the grass is green and close cropped. With a view like this, no wonder it has served as a popular picnic/relaxation area for generations past. An enticing spot, on a warmer day, to throw down a blanket, pull out a good book and wile away a summer afternoon.
The history goes back to prehistoric times. The Colorado River flows below a high sandstone bluff that has attracted people for thousands of years. The Tonkawa followed an ancient hunting trail just below the bluff and actively hunted the surrounding oak woods and rolling prairie. Spanish explorers crossed the river here and named the trail El Camino de la Bahia (the Bay Trail) as it was part of a trade route from present day Goliad to Nacogdoches. The town of La Grange was eventually created here by German and Czech settlers emigrating from Europe.
The Bluff Overlook is otherwise known as the Oakville Escarpment, alternating layers of calcareous sandstones and clays. It is a major erosional feature that forced the Colorado River to make a major course change and took thousands of years to develop. The locals refer to it as “the Bluff.” From the Lower Bluff Overlook, you can see the Fayette Power Project silhouetted against the distant skyline.
The park is composed of a massive hill cleaved down the middle by a wide sweeping ravine. At the highest elevation, nestled between a grove of oaks, a towering stone column with colorful mosaics watches over a massive crypt with a settled and venerable air. Old Glory and the Texas flag whip in the wind on the opposite side, marking this as hallowed ground. The remains of men who perished in the struggle for Texas independence are entombed in the granite vault. These men died in two separate events during the 1840’s: The Dawson Massacre and The Black Bean Death Lottery. These stories are told in striking detail on the various pavilions and displays nearby. It makes the hairs on my neck stand up to realize that descendants of these heroes probably still walk the streets of La Grange.
There are no dramatic water falls, snowy granite peaks or pristine lakes here, just 1.7 miles of trail that meanders through rippling Texas hills—if you keep a steady pace, it takes a little over an hour to make the circuit. There are, however, steep switchbacks, grassy open areas, rugged forest mottes and clear spring water running through the hillsides and along the floor of the valley. Just the kind of tree-covered, hilly landscape that reminded Czech and German immigrants of home. They came in droves in the mid-1800’s in search of a new life.
One such German, Heinrich Kreische, purchased 172 acres in 1849, which incorporated the present day historical site—the Dawson/Mier tomb included. Mr. Kreische carefully maintained the tomb that would later become Monument Hill as he developed the rest of the wilderness. He honored the sacrifices of those who made the area safe, knowing they helped to make his good fortune possible. A master stonemason, he built a grand three-story home for his large family along the hillside and various supporting outbuildings. By 1855, Mr. Kreische had become a prominent member of the community. In 1860, he built a brewery in the ravine below his house to take advantage of the clear, cool spring water. By 1879, the Kreische Brewery was the third largest brewery in Texas and “Kreische’s Bluff Beer” was being produced on an industrial scale. Kreische often invited the surrounding community to his scenic overlook and grounds to enjoy shooting competitions, large picnics, dances and, of course, good German beer!
The old home still stands, stately and towering, flanked by an old smokehouse, a barn and scattered artifacts of the period. Although the outbuildings have been restored, the home remains pretty much as it was, strong and durable, a touchstone of fine German engineering. The live oak tree just below the house is well over 200 years old. The remains of the old brewery claim sanctuary deep in the valley and stand as testimony to the industry and hard work of the Kreische family (he had six children, most of whom worked in the business). Viewing platforms hang off the hillside for casual tourists, but the trails will take you down to the stone infrastructure that still stands today. The stone work is uncompromising. You can see the rooms and compartments that were critical to the brewery and, later, you can visit the small museum in the headquarters building to learn just how demanding and complex the beer making process was—especially in the absence of modern technology. Self-reliant, self-taught and built by hand. . .what fortitude it took to leave one’s country behind and carve out a successful life among this rugged beauty.
Continuing on the trail, I was impressed by the quality. Hand rails on the really steep parts, granite treadway through the seeps and frequent benches for rest and contemplation. Bridgework along the lower level is original and is as strong as ever. The main trail once served as a road for customers, travelers and the family to more easily get to and from the Schulenburg Ferry. You can feel the temperature change in the shaded parts of the valley, lined with mosses, wafer ash, buckthorn, buckeyes and sumac. The main trail will take you through a grassy area festooned with cedar and little bluestem, an ocean of blond and copper this time of the year. As you make your way up out of the valley along the Schulenburg Ferry Trail, the frigid spring water still runs alongside for a distance before disappearing into the interior wilds. Before completing the loop, the oak woods (live oak, post oak and durand oak) become thick and dense, suggesting home to white tail deer, raccoon, fox, skunk and smorgasbord of birds.
The trail ends back at the headquarters building. . .a moderate but refreshing hike, especially if you don’t hurry and savor the experience. There is a small but complete museum inside the headquarters building to chronical the history and science of the Kreische Brewery. Many Texans have never heard of Monument Hill. To find this protected place, just take State Highway 71 to La Grange; get off on the second exit (which is highway 77 south), go all the way through town and turn right on Spur 92. The park will be about a block west, on the right.
There are guided tours of the brewery given by park staff (check times beforehand) and a handy activities guide, suitable for adults and children. In addition to explaining the sights, this guide also contains descriptions of the plants and animals that live here, a nature trail scavenger hunt and word search puzzle for the kids. There is enough diversity and areas of interest here to make Monument Hill a perfect destination for Junior Master Naturalists and other children’s groups.
This is a simple day trip that anyone can make—right in our backyard. I’m betting most LPMNs have never seen Monument Hill. If you go, take a heavy blanket and a picnic lunch. Enjoy the panoramic view and don’t hurry on the trail. It could only be even more beautiful and refreshing sprinkled with wildflowers in the spring. There is one suggestion I would offer. When I come back here to visit again, I will reverse the suggested flow of travel. Traversing the trail in a counter clockwise fashion would allow hikers to see the wilderness first and sequentially discover the pieces of this man’s life: his brewery, his hearth and home, finishing with the tomb and monument looking out over that magnificent view of the Colorado. Then have a picnic. As for me, frogs and toads will be croaking here, fireflies winking, when I return.