Dwight D. Eisenhower is a hero so deeply ingrained in U.S. history that monuments to his fame and respect for his contributions can be found all over this country. Everything’s not always bigger in Texas. Abilene, Kansas—where his boyhood home and presidential library are located—set aside 1,785 acres as their own Eisenhower State Park. Nassau County in New York state—which has no connection to the 34th President—named a 930-acre park after him. Even though Eisenhower was born in Denison, Texas, our state only comes in a distant third with a 463-acre park named in his honor. But ours seems bigger. The Texas Eisenhower State Park is located in Grayson County, northwest of Denison on the shores of Lake Texoma, a huge 89,000-acre lake right on the Texas/Oklahoma border. This is one of the Texas state parks farthest away from Bastrop, so if you plan to go, you’ll need to reserve from among the over 190 different accommodations the park offers.
The park squeezes the most fun possible into the limited acreage available, resulting in a geographical layout that snakes along the shoreline. Everything is found on one long and winding main road. It feels much larger than it actually is.
Water is the common denominator here. Formerly just a fishing hole, the park now boasts over 6 million visitors a year. Boating, fishing, and swimming are the primary draws—there are only 4 miles of hike/bike trails. Two fishing piers, one of which is lighted, make it possible to get out over the water where the big fish are. A lucky angler caught the 121.5-pound Texas state record blue catfish in Lake Texoma. If you have a boat, Lake Texoma awaits in all its sprawling diversity. A boat ramp with courtesy dock and fish cleaning station completes the necessary infrastructure for a successful day on the water. You need to know that going out in a boat here can become a bit complicated. The lake, of course, belongs to both Texas and Oklahoma, so depending on where you fish, you may need both a Texas and Oklahoma license. Better to just avoid the problem by purchasing a special Lake Texoma license for $12, which allows you to fish anywhere on the lake. You can get these at park headquarters.
Swimming at Eisenhower State Park is alluring because the swimming area is remote, rocky, and private. It is somewhat of a challenge just getting there. Set back in a quiet cove among high cliffs overlooking an attractive beach, the designated swim area is just off the Elm Point Camping Area located on the northwest tip of the park. No lifeguard means you swim at your own risk.
The Eisenhower Yacht Club distinguishes the park as a serious haven for water enthusiasts. It’s a privately-owned marina inside the park which provides a variety of services, including repair work on private boats, boat rentals, and boat slips. The marina offers up snacks, drinks, ice, bait, a waste dump, and a marine fueling station. The yacht club, in conjunction with a sister location in Denison, also sells new/used boats and dockominiums. Try finding this in another state park!
Within the park there are over 150 campsites, 34 screened shelters, 1 cabin (Ike’s Cabin), and a 35-person overnight group hall with kitchen (requires a 2-night stay). There’s also a 50-person pavilion with barbeque grills that’s free for those who can reserve 15 or more RV sites. If you would rather stay in digs that offer more amenities, Ike’s Cabin sleeps five, has air conditioning, heat, and electricity, but is in high demand. Get your reservations early. There are 3 different hiking or nature trails within the park. Ike’s Hike and Bike Trail and the Armadillo Hill Trail are the two for pedestrian traffic. The Chinquapin Ridge ATV Trail is for off-roaders. This 10-acre trail is only for mini-bikes and 4-wheelers less than 50 inches (no golf carts or side-by-sides allowed). Off-road vehicles are not allowed anywhere else in the park. OTV permits cost $16 and can be purchased in the park.
The landscape within the park is an eclectic mix of natural wonder. The woodlands are thick with oaks, elms, and bois d’arcs. Remnants of tallgrass prairie fill in between forest openings with stands of little bluestem and Indiangrass. To add even more diversity, the Red River flows through parts of the park on its way to the Mississippi River and ultimately to the sea. The shoreline attracts over 170 species of birds, including the great blue heron and osprey. Bald eagles winter in the park from October to March. The final dramatic feature is an upside-down bowl-shaped bump in the earth known as the Preston Anticline. It has pushed up several layers of clays, shales, and limestones, exposing a fossil history of ancient ocean life dating back to the Cretaceous Period. Of course, all these scenic coves and rock formations provide excellent fishing where largemouth and smallmouth bass, striped bass and channel catfish thrive. Texoma is the only lake in Texas where striped bass spawn.
The history of this area is a colorful one. Anglo settlers began using this area as a route to Texas and the American Southwest in the early 1830’s. Indian wars were, of course, a significant fact of life. Later, the Butterfield Overland stage routes ran through this part of Texas, as did the Chisolm and Shawnee cattle drives. Fort Johnson was established in 1840. 1853 saw the creation of Colbert’s Crossing on the Red River. It operated until 1931. In 1934, the Denison Dam was completed by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers to collect the waters of the Red River and its Oklahoma tributary, the Washita, creating the 12th-largest reservoir in the United States. In 1947 the Texas legislature decided to create the park alongside the lake with the intention of honoring Eisenhower and his Texas birthplace. The land was leased from the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers in 1954. It was opened to the public in 1958 with great fanfare. The celebration included patriotic music, a water carnival featuring boat armadas, Navy frogmen and waterskiing exhibitions.
Because of the popularity of the park, ranger programs are frequent and plentiful. You can learn all about bats, fossils, and animals of the region through skins and skulls. Little people are entertained by knee-high nature hikes and formal reading programs. You can even learn to handle a kayak properly through a shoreline kayaking class (registration required). The nearest towns are Denison and Sherman—both offer dining and shopping. Don’t overlook the Eisenhower Birthplace State Historic Site, the Red River Railroad Museum, and the Grayson County Frontier Village. Wildlife photographers and birders will enjoy the nearby Hagerman National Wildlife Refuge.
Eisenhower State Park promises many rewards for intrepid pilgrims willing to travel there for a weekend of fun. It offers plenty of quiet time and privacy for those seeking relaxation, water action and serious support facilities for boaters, fishermen and off-roaders, and lots of beautiful landscape and rugged outdoor experiences—even if it’s just to gaze enthralled at the night sky. I found navigation to the park among the maze of highway interchanges near Denison to be challenging, but doable. After watching cloud shadows race over the cliff rocks like a projected film, once inside the boundaries of this water wonderland you won’t want to leave. I can’t think of a better way to spend a pleasant weekend in May in Texas. And just think. . .through the power of memory, you’ll be able to visit again anytime you want. Get out there and discover!
By Larry Gfeller