Meandering is what happens when there are no boundaries. Creeks are fickle meanderers. They’re one of those serendipity occurrences of nature. With the exception of earthen banks, not much will hold a creek back. Creeks are not easily blocked by obstacles; they merely slide around them. They’re not good with reliability or schedules either. In some seasons they may run, in others they may not. Like all of us, creeks have a final destination, a point at which their individual identity is subsumed into something greater. Within the Trinity River Basin, Purtis Creek has already made such a transition. Purtis Creek is no more, it no longer meanders. In the interest of flood prevention, it has been dammed up and has become the 355-acre Purtis Creek Lake.
This lake is the key attraction for Purtis Creek State Park, a primary bass fishing destination. Located in Van Zandt (and part in Henderson) county, an hour southeast of Dallas and 3 ½ hours north of Bastrop, the landscape in springtime is right out of Huckleberry Finn. Everything is lush, green, and lazy. Sunlight falls easily through the thick forest canopy and hits the ground in bright oval patches. Just outside the unhurried town of Eustace, Texas, the highway sparkled with wildflowers, lies nearly abandoned except for an intermittent flow of campers and bass boats. There aren’t many distant out-of-town visitors. The park is like a special retreat for in-the-know locals. It’s very small, just shy of 1,600 acres. If you plan to stay the night, know that reservations are necessary because lots of townies come here to fish.
We’ll talk more about why the park is such a magnet for fishermen, but why would others come here? Are you a contemplative person? Do you feel a connection with wild spaces? The aesthetic here is monkish seclusion and simplicity. Amenities are so minimal, there is little option but to rejoin nature, to reconnect, to escape the absurdity of modern life. It’s like being stranded on a small island with nothing but a soft breeze, birdsong, the wilderness, and your most intimate thoughts. Calm as a stone in deep water. This place is all about being present in the moment.
Now for you fishermen/boaters. Of primary interest here, largemouth bass are on a catch-and-release basis. The other popular species are catfish and crappie, both of which you can take home for dinner. The small lake has three fishing piers, two of which are lighted, and all have fish cleaning stations nearby. The main boat ramp is located on the headquarters side of the lake near the picnic pavilion, restrooms, and playground. You can bring your own kayak or canoe, or rent them on a first-come, first-served basis from the rental kiosk. The park allows up to 50 motorized boats on the lake at a time, all with an “idle only” speed limit and a no-wake policy. Realizing what a popular fishing destination the park is, you can fish all night (without camping in the park) using a special $2 per person overnight fishing permit. Otherwise, as a state park no state fishing license is required to fish the lake. You can even borrow rods, reels, and tackleboxes from park headquarters.
There are limited facilities for group picnics or gatherings at Purtis Creek. There is one pavilion in the park, and it requires a reservation, but there are ample picnic tables sprinkled around the swimming area (no lifeguard), a playground for the kiddos, and restrooms located in a lightly forested beach-type area near the main boat ramp. The park store sells supplies, outdoor equipment, bait, gifts, and ice. When I visited, this area was busy with families and kids. It is set away from the heavily forested part of the park. It’s a place where everyone can relax, play, and even fish from the water’s edge. As an aside, there are plenty of ranger-led programs available for kids here. One of the most active ranger-led programs I’ve seen includes walks/talks about owls, meteors, coyotes, fox-themed crafts, skins/skulls, edible & medicinal plants, how to cast a fishing rod, and capturing bugs & the “solar system” in a jar. Be sure and check the schedule of events; there’s always something going on.
If you are an avid hiker or mountain biker, don’t come here looking for high adventure. There are only 3 trails in the park, and they’re all easy. The granddaddy of them all is the Wolfpen Hike and Bike Trail. At a little over 4 miles, it will stretch your muscles but not your imagination. Like observing lakeside activity? The Beaver Slide Nature Path walks you just shy of 2 miles around the lakeshore where, if you’re lucky, you can spot Great Blue Herons and beavers. If you’re just looking for a simple private stroll, try the short and easy Solar Trail which runs along the dam. Although the birds and other wildlife in the park are diverse, there’s no wolverines, tigers, or bears—nothing distinguishing a Texas state park’s ordinary critter experience. The park is located close to Athens, Texas which affords access to a number of museums and restaurants for those pining for a higher level of “civilization.” And for you “pickers” out there, on the first Monday weekend of each month of the year, there is the biggest flea market in Texas held in nearby Canton, Texas. Canton is less than 30 minutes away but be warned: First Monday Trade Days shoppers have long ago realized the value of staying at Purtis Creek for this event. It’s affordable, not too crowded, and comes with its own sunrises and sunsets—so be sure you have a reservation.
Even though the Purtis Creek area today is a bit sleepy and quiet, it wasn’t always that way. During the rootin’-tootin’ frontier days, this area was full of small towns and communities, all drawn here by an abundance of small game and natural resources needed to build. Life was good: abundant, fast-moving, and colorful. Indian incursions were common. On the south border of the park lies a road known as the Tyler to Porter’s Bluff Road. This was the site of the famous Indian battle of the Neches in 1839. It was also the road that served as a well-used stage route from East Texas to the Trinity River. As the region was tamed, life slowed down to its 20th Century pace. Our lazy little state park was born in 1977 when the property was acquired from 12 local landowners. It was a joint purchase by the U.S. Soil and Water Conservation Service, and Texas Parks and Wildlife. The price was right and the need for flood control was apparent. After the Soil and Conservation Service built the dam in the mid-80’s, the state park was officially opened in 1988.
So, if you’re looking for a flashy, splashy weekend in one of those sprawling park properties that Texas is known for, don’t come here. What you will find here is only relaxation and quiet. Here you can enjoy cool nights with the moonlight falling through a lacework of branches. You will find the sky overhead salted with a billion remote stars. Darkness doesn’t last forever but it doesn’t change much during daylight hours. No one is in a hurry. Even the deer slip through the wilderness with unhurried grace, quiet as phantoms. The sound of perfect equilibrium is silence. Take an early morning swim, drowse in the drifting scent of a breakfast campfire, listen to the birds stirring in the brush—let the day unfold without an itinerary. Believe me, even fishermen come here to soak in nature. Maybe that explains why this place seems so comfortable. It’s like one of those threadbare stuffed monkeys whose eyes have been loved off. Get out of the house. Make like a creek. Meander a little. Here’s to meandering!
By Larry Gfeller