Cleburne State Park and the nearby city of Cleburne (pronounced Klee-burn) carry their name in common. Where did thisname come from? If you drive near the Johnson County Courthouse in the city of Cleburne, you will see the statue of Confederate Gen. Patrick Cleburne (pronounced Klay-burn) looking out from his pedestal, and all appears to make sense. The problem is, there are several geographic features named after Patrick Cleburn, including Cleburne County in Alabama and Arkansas. Cleburne is described as having served in “many unsuccessful military campaigns” in our Civil War and was killed at the battle of Franklin (Tennessee). Gen Cleburne never set foot in the place in Texas that would become his namesake.
In all fairness, many young Johnson County soldiers would depart for war from this location, and later serve under Cleburne, so I can only conclude these Texans thought a lot of the man—and named their town after him. And, while we are being fair, Texas shares the same pronunciation difficulties with that county in Arkansas (where Cleburne did serve).
Our land that belongs to the state park, although obscure, has been favored real estate for long before the Civil War. It is enchanting property. There is the beauty of the white limestone hills covered in oak, elm, cottonwood, and other hardwoods. Blazing color erupts each year from redbud, sumac, and a kaleidoscope of wildflowers. And, importantly, flowing springs feed the dense woods and attract all manner of life from the surrounding expanse of prairie. It was this stunning valley of natural springs that eventually stamped the area as a picturesque setting for first a thriving frontier city, and later, a state park.
The Comanche (and other tribes) frequented the area, crossing the Brazos River there and using the thick woods as a rest and refit spot. Numerous raids were launched to the south from this staging area. Settlers eventually established the town of Kimball in the early 1850’s as one of the first settlements in the Johnson County area. After the Civil War, South Texas ranchers drove vast herds of longhorns to northern markets on the Chisolm Trail, which relied on the river crossing for efficient passage. The woodlands around the present-day park offered convenient campsites for the drovers. After the heyday of the cattle drives many communities withered and died out, including Kimball. The town of Cleburne was established in 1863 as the county seat for Johnson County and after the railroad came to town, Cleburne boomed as a transportation center, connecting smaller towns and larger cities.
Much later, in 1934, a group of local businessmen were interested in developing this beautiful area and planted the idea of using it as a state park. With a little “watering” in the form of lobbying, they watched the idea grow. It didn’t take long for the Texas State Park Board to jump on the prize and acquire the land from the city of Cleburne. By 1937 the Civilian Conservation Corps put a company on the ground there to build Cleburne State Park. The first order of business was to build a grand earthen dam to allow the natural springs to fill the 116 acres that would become Cedar Lake. To this day, this lake is the centerpiece of the park, along with the tri-level stone-lined, stair-stepped spillway abutting the dam. With exacting skill, the men continued to build a three-mile scenic roadway around the lake and the fine masonry/wooden Camp Creek Bridge.
By 1940, workers had added the concession building, boathouse, bathhouse, and other buildings to round out the park. Of course, the skill and artisanry of the CCC boys is legendary and will always distinguish their parks from all the others. In 1940 Company 3804 was disbanded.
You need to come see this park today to truly appreciate what a gem it is. Tucked away in a small valley in the breaks lining the broad Brazos River Valley, it beckons harried and stressed Texans from all over to come enjoy the cool, clear waters of Cedar Lake and the restful storybook surroundings. Cleburne State Park is small by comparison (528 acres) to many other parks but what it lacks in expanse pales against its striking limestone bluffs and spring-fed lake. Much of the uplands above the valley are open, grassy rangeland but the valley slopes are densely wooded with Ashe juniper and provide much-needed habitat for many Texas critters.
On a warm sunny day, families flock to the open greenbelt areas to lay down blankets, take a picnic, or walk the trails. As the sun seeps through the trees painting a mottled patchwork on the roads, people move with a lazy sense of calm. Nobody is in a hurry. Everything is as it should be. Birds fly out from the banks and cut over the lake—even the beavers take time off to enjoy a leisurely cruise through the open water.
For me, the most notable feature of the park is the seemingly endless drive into the park. Stretching for a full 3 miles, this road is the only way in or out of the park, and squiggles unhurried through verdant hills and around Cedar Lake. Fishermen, of course, would vote down the entrance road in favor of fishing in the lake. The lake is kept relatively cool by the constant flowing bottom-fed springs, and it makes a near ideal home for crappie, catfish, and largemouth bass. Bluegill and redear sunfish also hang out there. A really cool ADA-accessible, covered fishing pier was installed in 2016 that boasts a freshwater reef made of fish habitat structures around and under the pier to help attract sportfish for bank fishermen. It’s a no-wake lake dedicated to fishing, so only small craft are allowed on the water.
Other attractions in the park include a 6-mile mountain bike loop, a selection of different level hiking trails, and lots of overnight accommodations, including 3 cabins, 6 screen shelters, and 58 campsites. If you’ve got a large group, you’re in luck. There’s both a men’s and women’s group barracks which sleep a total of 44 people and a dining hall that seats about 70 people on folding tables and chairs. There’s a nice kitchen containing a commercial cook stove with griddle top, commercial-size refrigerator, and plenty of space for meal preparation. It comes with pots, pans and silverware, an outdoor patio with grill, and picnic tables. The park store sells ice, firewood, charcoal, and ice cream—everything needed to make a stay of it.
The wildlife you’re likely to find is pretty typical for Texas state parks with one or two exceptions. I’ve already mentioned the lake has beavers, but it also sports the somewhat uncommon swamp rabbit. Considered a separate category of cottontail, this bunny can not only swim but often prefers it as a way to navigate reed filled waterways and wetlands. It can also swim underwater for short distances, something most coyotes will not do!
The park is located about 30 minutes southwest of Fort Worth on the northern edge of the Hill County. From Bastrop, this is more than a day trip, so plan on making at least a weekend out of it. Everybody has a garden of reasons to choose from. You’ll need to get out of your routine and make an effort. Here you can really relax, listen to the birds, and let the slapping of the lakeside water lull you into a cozy afternoon nap. Also, Cleburne is only 10 miles away and it offers museums, restaurants, and shopping. 30 minutes in the other direction takes you to the town of Glen Rose and Dinosaur Valley State Park—a memorable experience in its own right (see November 2024 Blog).
People have been finding their way here for ages to enjoy this gift of nature. As timeless as Cleburne State Park may be, it’s always evolving. Sunrises and sunsets are different each day, the morning vapor rising off the lake is forever changing, and the animals go about their unique purposes, each in their turn as the round earth rolls. All of this needs a human participant for full appreciation. It will fill you up and make you whole. Partake.
By Larry Gfeller